Guide · Teak furniture
Teak Furniture — Why It Lasts Generations and How to Care for It
14 July 2026 · 6 min read
There's a reason why, for centuries, the decks of ocean-going ships were built from teak: it is one of the few woods in the world that defends itself against water, sun and time. The same reason means you buy a solid teak table once — and then pass it on.
In this guide we explain what makes teak remarkable, how to recognise an honestly made piece, and how to care for teak in a northern climate (spoiler: it's easier than you think).
What makes teak special?
Teak (Tectona grandis) grows across South-East Asia; among the most prized is the wood from the Indonesian island of Java — more on that in our piece on Jepara, the teak furniture capital. Its advantage over other species comes down to one word: oiliness.
- Teak contains natural oils and rubber that act as built-in impregnation — it needs no chemicals to resist moisture.
- A high silica content makes it hard and abrasion-resistant.
- It doesn't warp or crack with humidity swings the way most woods do — which is why it suits the dining room, the bathroom and the terrace alike.
- It ages with grace: left unoiled outdoors, teak takes on a noble silvery-grey patina without losing any strength.
Solid teak or veneer? How not to get fooled
These days, "teak" is often just the colour of the lacquer. Before you pay, check:
- 1.The weight — solid teak is heavy; a side table you can lift with one finger is not solid teak.
- 2.The grain — on the edges and underside, the grain pattern should run through the full thickness of the board. Veneer stops at a thin surface layer.
- 3.The scent — freshly cut or freshly oiled teak has a distinctive smell: warm, faintly leathery.
- 4.The joinery — in Jepara, furniture is traditionally joined with tenons and dovetails, not screws through plastic fittings. Look under the tabletop.
- 5.Proof of origin — legal Indonesian teak carries an SVLK certificate; an importer operating in the EU must also comply with the EUDR regulation. A seller who has no idea what you're talking about — that's a warning sign. (The same transparency rules apply to recognising genuine handicraft.)
Caring for teak furniture at home — less is more
Indoors, teak asks for remarkably little:
- Day to day: a dry or slightly damp cloth. Skip the all-purpose silicone sprays — they leave a film that teak doesn't like.
- Every 6–12 months: oiling, if you want to keep the deep honey colour. A thin coat of teak oil (or linseed oil), along the grain, wiping off the excess after 15 minutes.
- Stains: fine sandpaper (240+) along the grain and a touch of oil — teak forgives more than any other table wood.
- What to avoid: sitting right next to a radiator, and weeks of full sun through glass (no wood enjoys that).
Why it simply pays off
A workshop-made teak piece costs more than its chain-store imitation. But the maths is different from what the price tag suggests: a table that serves 30–50 years is cheaper per year than three tables replaced every few seasons. And it leaves a story behind — and the face of the person who made it. For how to place such a piece in your interior, see our article on Balinese style, boho and japandi.
Frequently asked questions
- Is teak furniture suitable for bathrooms?
- Yes — teak's natural oiliness handles moisture better than any other common wood. All it needs is ventilation and standard care.
- Does teak have to be oiled?
- No — it's an aesthetic choice. Without oil, teak slowly turns grey (faster outdoors); with oil, it keeps its honey tone.
- How can I tell teak from unnamed "exotic wood"?
- By the weight, the oily feel, the scent and the straight, dense grain. "Exotic wood" without a species name is usually a cheaper substitute.
- Can old, greyed teak be refreshed?
- Yes — sanding with fine paper and re-oiling restores the colour even after years. It's one of the great advantages of solid teak.
The shop opens in autumn 2026 — the first container is being filled now.
Join the First CircleThe list shops first — 48 h before opening
